Thursday, August 6, 2009

Epilogue: When Life Gives You Lemons, Make Lemonade


I admit that I thought "Budapest and Beyond" had come to an end when I wrote my last post in Prague, but, seeing as a) I am a Dunlap, and b) I was on vacation, I should've known better. A 12-day trip to Europe that went off without a hitch? Could it be possible? Not quite.

I'll start with the sore throat. Sometime Tuesday, our last full day abroad, I felt a tickle in my throat. It burnt a little, so I thought it was something left over from lunch, and that it would take care of itself with a drink of water. By the time I got that drink of water, however, it was too late - a full blown sore throat was coming on. "No big deal," I thought, "it'll go away with some sleep."


The rest of Tuesday was documented pretty well in my last post, so I'll skip to Wednesday morning, 5:30 a.m. (or, 11:30pm, Tuesday night EST): our wake up call. We pretty much had everything packed the night before, so after the last minute teeth brushing and deodorant application, we heaved our bags out into the hall by 6:00am for the porter to pick up.


Papa did a lot of things right to prepare for this trip, and one of them was the bags. I (in Athens) got a call from Papa (in Florida) back in January asking if I wanted him to buy us matching bags from Costco. "They're great," he said, "neutral colors, wheels, lots of space, and even straps for us to carry them on our backs." I gave my consent, but little did I know what I had just agreed to. Flash forward to July 29th. Those Costco (although technically they were Samsonite) bags were packed as full as any bag I've ever seen. Throughtout our trip, we managed to pick up a "little something" from just about everywhere for just about everyone. If not for those bags o' glory, we would've had no choice but to leave some stuff behind. And, miraculously, they each weighed just under 50lbs. But more on the bags later....


Back to Prague. Our transfer to the airport left around 6 am (midnight EST). Never sure what to expect before an international flight, we got there 3 hours early; probably just a few minutes too early. Security was pretty painless, and our gate didn't even open until 8:10, so when we got to the international terminal at 7:15, we had a little time to kill. By this point, I was realizing that my sore throat was turning into the worst sore throat I've ever had, and possibly something worse. Papa grabbed some coffee at a bar while I slugged down some orange juice. I noticed a Duty Free shop across the hall, and decided to see if they had cough drops (Note: I hate taking medicine when I'm sick. I'd rather wait it out and be miserable for a few days than take meds and drag it out longer...just my personal opinion, but, when I decide I want medicine, it's pretty bad). So, I had decided if I was going to be sick on this 9 hour flight, I might as well have something to comfort me. At first glance, I only saw liquor, chocolate, and cigarettes. Turns out that's all I saw at second and third glance, too. No meds. So, I go over to the counter. "Excuse me, but do you have any cough drops?" I ask, gesturing to my throat for clarity. Not amused, she slowly shook her head "no." "Do they have them anywhere in the airport?" Again, slow, unamused, head shaking. I settled for some peppermint gum, and started chewing away. It helped a little.


By this time, our gate was open, so we went through the final security checkpoint and took our seats. Within the hour, we started boarding, and found ourselves in the second to last row again (which was fine, and expected). Finally, around 9:30 am (3:30am EST), we left the Czech Republic, and made our way back toward the big pond. Our flight was normal: bad movies (DragonBall Z..seriously?), crying babies, crowded bathrooms, etc., etc. But, I guess that's what happens when you transport 300 people over the ocean in a large metal vessel.


Finally, around 6:15 pm (12:15 EST, which I'll use from now on), we landed in NYC. By this point, I was pretty achy and chilled with a fever. Also, I'd gone through about 30 pieces of gum. Neither Papa nor I slept much, so we were looking forward to our transfer flight to Pittsburgh and our own, comfortable beds back in Ohio. We went through customs without much trouble, and saw to it that our bags were placed on the belt headed for our next flight. By 1:15, we were through security and roaming around JFK looking for food. Papa got a coffee and scone, and I found some cous cous salad type thing which cost an arm and a leg. I didn't have much of an appetite, so soon, we were on our way to Gate 25, which was on the opposite side of the terminal. I stopped for some REAL cough drops, and was feeling pretty crummy when we finally made it to our gate. Papa was making calls back home, and I checked in with my mom to make sure we were still on the same schedule for pick-up in Pittsburgh. Everything was looking good, and we only had a few more hours to go...so we thought.


Around 3pm, I noticed that our scheduled time and actual departure time no longer coincided on the departure board. I did a double take, and realized that we'd been delayed, moving our flight from 3:50 to 5:50. Not something I wanted to hear..well, read. I freaked out just a little, and decided it was time to go for the heavy hitters, Tylenol. I sensed that I had a longer night than I knew ahead of me.


Soon, it became apparent that something fishy was going on. Flights were getting cancelled, rescheduled, and delayed left and right. Papa went up to the desk to scope out the situation. Apparently, JFK was surrounded by major thunderstorms, and if they hit, the airport would shut down. Papa suggested renting a car (by now it was 4:30), because we could make it home around midnight. The thought of sitting for 8 more hours wasn't appealing, but neither was getting stuck in New York, so I left it up to him. Here enters Pat. As Papa and I mulled over the idea of renting a car, a man sitting across the aisle leaned over and asked, "Are yins from Pittsburgh?" We said yes, nearby there. "Yins thinkin' of rentin' a car?" Yes, we said, we were. "Well if you do, I'll split it with you. I'll drive halfway." He also recommended we not leave until they cancel the flight. That way, we could still get a refund. Not really sure what to make of his offer, we turned back toward our side of the aisle, mulling over our options again.


Soon after Pat's suggestion, I checked the board again. This time, our flight was gone completely. Not even on the list. Another Pittsburgher noticed it was missing, and asked what was going on. The poor Delta employee looked up our flight and said it had been moved to Gate 18. I reported back to Papa, and we made our way back across the terminal to Gate 18. When we got there, we found that we were now scheduled to leave not at 5:50, but at 6:30. Lovely. "That's okay," I thought, "only 40 extra minutes. You'll be fine."

Gate 18 was in a much more crowded area of the terminal. Anyone that's ever been to JFK should know that it is one of the er... dirtier airports in the US. We nearly took our lives in our hands sitting waiting for our flight. Multiple birds were flying throughout, threatening to get just a little too close to some poor soul's toupee. Pat, who had joined us at Gate 18, kept jumping up and changing seats because pigeons sitting above him on the 2nd floor railing were facing the wrong way, if you know what I mean. As I looked around, I felt as if I was in some sort of human zoo. To my right, an old, sleepy Italian couple trying to get to Phoenix. To my left, a Chinese family with about twelve kids running around, weaving between the aisles, screaming and laughing. Across from me, Pat, Papa, and two Mennonite girls who looked to be about my age. Behind me, an Indian family with a cranky toddler (enough said). Periodically, an announcement regarding our flight would come across the loudspeaker. "Attention passengers traveling on Delta flight 2426 with service to Pittsburgh. Your flight has been delayed due to a late arrival. Your flight will now leave at......6:30." 6:30, every time. Every time this came on, I would pay attention, thinking they were going to announce a new time, but no. This announcement also got the attention of one of the Mennonite girls across from me. Each time it began we would look at each other, thinking maybe our flight was going to be delayed even further. And each time, we both breathed a sigh of relief that it hadn't changed.

As time went on, and we were delayed until 7:00, Papa struck up conversation with the two girls. Turns out, Mary Ellen and Rosetta Byler were sisters traveling back from the Ukraine. Mary Ellen had been a missionary for nine months, and Rosetta had been visiting for three weeks. They were headed home to somewhere about three hours from Pittsburgh. Periodically, Pat would emerge from behind his laptop to put in his two cents about the approaching weather, our flight, and a rental car. It went on like this for some time. I managed to finally fall asleep for a little bit, but when I woke up we had been moved from 7:00 to 8:30. By this point, it was about 7:00, and flights around us were getting cancelled right and left. I had a high suspicion that we weren't going to see the light of the City of Champions without a fight.
Finally, our flight was cancelled around 8:00. Papa went up to find out what was going on. He came back, pointed at the four (Pat, Mary Ellen, Rosetta, and myself) of us, and said, "Gate 11, let's go." Naturally, we followed. Gate 11 turned out to be Delta's "Complaint Gate." It sure was busy on July 29th. An employee less than cheerfully explained that since our flight was cancelled as a result of the weather, which they cannot control, we would receive no refund for our flight, but they could give us the number to a cheap hotel. No thanks. Meanwhile, Papa was on the phone with Hertz, trying to find us a rental car. They weren't renting out one way cars anymore. Pat was on his phone trying to get a flight for the next day. The best anyone could do was Friday (two days later) on standby. Papa called three different phone numbers, trying to reach Bob and Lynn Mackall. No answer. Pat came back with the number for another cheap hotel. Again, no thanks. Meanwhile, Mary Ellen, Rosetta, and I were just standing there, all going on 24 hours since our last snore. Finally, Bob called back. The bad weather had washed out a bridge that would turn the usually short drive to their house into a two hours drive. Not ideal. When it looked as if all was lost, Pat sang out, "I've got an ace in the hole!" A rental car from Avis, waiting for us in the next terminal. Again, we got the finger point and the, "Let's go," from Papa, and the five of us set off through the airport.

Papa, Mary Ellen, Rosetta, and I all had checked baggage. We took our baggage tags down to the customer service in the hopes that they could retrieve our luggage for us. "Two hours minimum," they said. "But if you want, we can have it flown to Pittsburgh tomorrow and delivered to your house by 3pm." Yes please. We left our addresses and set off for the Air Train that would take us to the next terminal over. We walked out into the most torrential of torrential downpours, accompanied by lots of thunder and lightning. We made it up to the train, and when the doors opened, we were met by a blast of wind and rain coming in between the train and building. Reluctantly, I stepped on the metal train on the metal track (kind of a sitting duck in a thunderstorm) and took a seat. Finally, we made it to the Avis office and Papa and Pat found us a car.

We loaded our bags in the trunk, hopped in, and headed for Pittsburgh around 8:30pm. Papa started driving, but Pat (who was a traveling salesman) knew the route like the back of his hand and soon insisted that Papa let him get us through New Jersey and onto the PA turnpike. Things began to settle down as we made our way west. The weather wasn't as bad, and we were able to get to know each other. At one point, Pat asked, "So what's with the dresses and stuff? What are you guys, Amish?" Mary Ellen and Rosetta politely replied that no, they were Mennonite. He later asked the girls, "So what are you supposed to do with your lives? Get married, have babies, and grow vegetables?!" (I don't think he was kidding...) I remember the shock on Mary Ellen's face when she found out that we didn't even know Pat before the airport. Pat continued to drive as we made it to the NJ/PA state line. The toll woman at the state line gave us girls the most sympathetic look I have ever received. Rosetta gave her a tired wave, which she returned, full of pity. We must have looked awful at that point. Later, Papa noted how close we resembled the cast of the Sound of Music, escaping into the Pennsylvania mountains in the night. We certainly had a cast of characters in that car.

Our next goal was to try to figure out a.) where Mary Ellen and Rosetta lived, and b.) where we could meet their sisters who were heading east from Pittsburgh where they had been waiting all day. As we didn't get much of an answer when we asked where the girls lived, our goal was to find a rest stop that could be entered by both east and west bound cars. Pat said that Sideling Hill was the only one he knew of that would work. At our second coffee stop (approx. 11:30pm), he checked out the rest stop map and told the east-bound girls where to meet us. At our third coffee stop (approx. 12:15am), we called their sisters to see how close they were. Sideling Hill was located at mile marker 172. The girls were at mile marker 160. We were at mile marker 304. And so, we piled back in the car and headed for Sideling Hill, planning to get there around 2 in the morning.

The girls and I dozed while Papa and Pat (for some reason, Papa kept calling him Ray) chatted. When Papa sleepily offered to drive when Pat/Ray got tired, Pat/Ray informed Papa that he was sleepy, but not tired. Apparently there's a difference, because he kept driving, stopping about every other exit for another Starbucks.

Finally, around 2 in the morning, we pulled up to Sideling Hill rest stop. Mary Ellen and Rosetta found their way through the building to the other parking lot (where their sisters and friends were) in about 3 seconds flat. We followed, hoping one of the girls would take a photo of our group. We said our goodbyes and headed back to the car, heading west, as they continued home.


Earlier in the trip, Pat and Papa were trying to figure out what to do about dropping us off at the airport. Pat said only lived a few miles from the New Stanton exit, which is only one exit west of the Donegal exit (AKA, the "cabin exit"). Rather than have Pat drop us off at the airport at 5am, still 35 minutes from home, I decided it sounded much better to me to have him drop us off at the cabin around 3:30am. When I called mom around 1am, she said she could come get us in the morning.

Finally, we made our way up Fowl Hill and to Oak Ridge Estates where the cabin was sitting waiting for us, never before had it looked so inviting. I clambered out of the car, got the key off the tree, and went inside as Papa and Pat exchanged business cards. I wrote down directions to get back to the turnpike, and within a matter of minutes, he was off. Papa looked in the fridge and declared, "Well, it looks like we're having pickles and beer for breakfast." I looked in the cupboard and said, "Well, at least we can have Poptarts with our pickles and beer." That was pretty funny at 4 in the morning.

Papa went straight to sleep and I jumped in the shower, which was long overdue. I called my parents to let them know we arrived safely, called Adam and told the poor guy an abridged (but still quite long) version of our tale, and after waking up in Prague some 29-odd hours earlier, went to sleep.

Mom and Nene came to rescue us in the morning bringing peanut butter sandwiches for Papa and fruit shake ingredients for me. We told the whole story and showed them our pictures on the way home. Our bags did not arrive by 3pm, but around noon the next day. We didn't care that they were late, especially when everything arrived in tact - even the glass Christmas ornament I bought my mom.

I know it's a little late, but that's the account of the strangest 24 hours of my life. Now that the jet lag is gone, and the last remains of my cold are almost gone, we can laugh about it. We actually did a pretty good job of laughing at it at the time, even if they were laughs of disbelief. Until our next trip, hasta lavista baby.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Last Stop: Czech Republic

Since we just put in a wake up call for 5:30am, and have to leave for the airport at 6:15, I'll do my best to sum up the last three days while also making it to bed before 1am.

As Papa mentioned in his interview, we left Germany on Sunday and took a bus up to Prague. We arrived at our hotel, the Imperial Hotel, right around lunch, and had a bite to eat at the Imperial Cafe. We had a little bit of time before the "briefing" with our Czech host, Jana, so I decided to check out the fitness room while Papa unpacked. Turns out, the fitness center is in the basement - floor -1 in the elevator. Once I got down there, it was about as sketchy as this hotel can get (certainly not as sketchy as the Diamond after dark), mostly because it was deserted. After scoping it out, I still had about 20 minutes to spare, so I decided to check out the computer situation, but the elevator had other plans. Firstly, you must swipe your room key to activate the elevator. This I did, as I pressed the button labeled "receptiton"...

*Boom* (normal elevator noises) *Second Boom* (not normal elevator noises). *Beep* (I swipe my card again, thinking I made a mistake). *Click* (I press the reception button again) *.......* (silence..) *Beep, click*, *......*. *Beep, click*, *.......*. It was then that I determinded that I was indeed stuck in the elevator.

I pressed the call button, hoping that the person who answered could speak English. They could, and said they would send someone to fix it right away. 30 minutes went by, and I heard a few bumps and scratches, but nothing significant. I called again, asking them to alert Papa of my situation, so as not to worry him when I didn't show up for the meeting. Just as I hung up, the door slowly began to open, revealing the face of my rescuer. He kindly showed me the staff steps, and I actually made it to the meeting on time, not to mention before Papa.

When the business was through, Jana took us for a stroll around town to get our surroundings. For those of you who have been to Prague before, we are just up the street from the Municipal House and the Powder Tower, not too far from Celetna. Jana showed us how to walk to the Old Town Square, where we could find lots of restaurants, shops, and beautiful buildings. Papa and I especially liked the Astronomical Clock, and joined the crowd of people waiting to watch the hour turn; each of the 12 Disciples made an appearance, along with other cool things.

On the way to Old Town Square, I noticed a Mozart and Dvorak (two of my favorite composers) concert at the Municipal House that evening. We decided to go, eating first at the French restaurant located in the House as well. Both were excellent; either that hall had the best acoustics I've heard in a long time, or that was the best chamber orchestra I've heard in a long time. A mix of both, I think.

The next morning (Monday), we took a tour of Prague Castle, the largest castle in the world. We slowly made our way back across the Vltava (we know it as Moldau) River via Charles Bridge. While reading a little bit about Prague in Tom Dunlap's "Europe on a Shoestring" book, I read about an all-vegan restaurant that was pretty close to Old Town Square - Country Life. Papa and I had scoped it out the day before, and decided to have lunch there after our tour. It was really good, but we definitely saw a different side of Prague. For one, I think we were the only ones in there from the U.S., which is something that hasn't happened often on this trip. For another, neither Papa or I have dreads, gauged ears, tattoos, or a drug-dealer on speed dial. Spending 9 months of the year in Athens, I'm used to this crowd, and I think Papa could handle it. Don't get me wrong, I really enjoyed it, but put simply, we were a little out of place. Also, I know some think of veganism as a little drastic and strange, but until I get a tattoo that says "vegan", you have nothing to worry about with me haha..

Earlier, we noticed a poster for another concert at the Municipal House - The Best of Gershwin. We decided that since we'd had good luck there the night before, we might as well try it again. We bought the tickets, and headed back to the hotel to get cleaned up. Papa's camera battery finally died on Monday, after a long and painful battle. As we were walking home, we not only stopped at the Palladium (a shopping center with 200+ shops...to quote Papa, it was "the shopping queen's paradise"), but also at a Canon store; Papa wanted to buy a battery charger since I was running out of room on my memory card. The guy working there was pretty nice, and offered to charge Papa's battery in the store if he could come back two hours later to pick it up. Two hours later, as we headed to dinner and the concert, we picked up the battery, fully charged. Side note: In Prague, the currency is the Czech Koruna, and approximately 20K=$1. When I asked Papa how much he charged him to charge the battery, he said 50K. He laughed when I told him it had only cost $2.50.

Both dinner and the concert were excellent, but for the sake of time, I'll move onto today, Tuesday, our last day in Prague.

For the first time since we left ELO, we were able to sleep in. I don't if Papa took advantage of this, but I did, and didn't wake up until 9am (when compared to 6:30 and 7:00 that we're used to, 9 is sleeping in). After breakfast, Papa and I headed back to Old Town Square to do some last minute gift shopping. There are so many shops and gifts to choose from, that this took longer than we thought, but it was fun, too. We stopped for lunch and split a veggie pizza (no cheese), which was actually really good; Papa claims it was the best meal yet.

At 1:30, we met up with Jana and the others and headed out for our last tour. First, we walked to the Estates Theater, where our guide, who must've been 85 or older, gave us a very entertaining tour. Not only was the building beautiful, but it also has some very interesting history. Most notably, Mozart conducted his opera "Don Giovanni" on the Estates stage where it premired in 1791. Apparently, Mozart was better received in Prague than he was in Vienna, and he spent lots of time here. Our guide played little excerpts of certain pieces for us, and even took us under the stage and through connecting passageways into other buildings.

Next, we had a tour of the Municipal House, but since Papa and I had seen two concerts there, and eaten at 2 of 3 of the restaurants, we probably would've been just as qualified to lead that tour.

Next, we decided to check out some of the streets we hadn't seen, so we took the impressive Na Prikope to the equally impressive Vaclavske Namesti (Wenceslas Square). There are just so many shops and beautiful buildings, that Papa stopped taking pictures. Yes, even Papa did that.

As we were heading back, we noticed yet another poster for a concert at the Municipal House; this time, they were doing show tunes. Papa got cleaned up, and then we headed to a restaurant not far from our hotel for dinner. We were debating whether or not to go yet again to the Municipal House, but decided, why not? We don't usually have the opportunity to see three concerts in three nights, plus, we now have three big genres covered.

And that's it. Our time in Europe has come to an end (for now). Our tour guide in Budapest warned us early on, "Out of the 2000 photos you take, there might be 10 that you actually like", and I'd say we definitely have taken our share of photos. Hopefully there will be more than 10 that we like, and if you're willing to look at all of them, I'm sure we'll be willing to show you.

Thanks for reading these posts and keeping up with our travels. However, I hear my pillow calling. We'll see you guys back in the states.

SPECIAL EDITION: Final Interview with Frank Dawson

Seeing as our trip is coming to a close, I asked Digger for one more interview. He was happy to say a few words regarding our final voyage: Passau to Prague.
"Well, we made it, all the way to Praque on a bus through beautiful country from Passau, Germany to Praque, the capital of the Czech Republic. Once again, Uni-World provided a wonderful guide, Sonja, who covered the local history and cultural background.
For me the most chilling part of the trip was going through the abandoned border check points that were once part of the Iron Curtain. First came the German side, then the Czech side, about a mile down the highway, where the communist's ruled. There is a marked difference in the landscape of the two nations to this day, Without an insentive for people to work, the communist side is run down, with mostly large fields used for planting crops. To some degree, it reminded me of driving through part of West Virginia, complete with tires in the backyards.
Fortunately, Prague seems to have survived all this, where we arrived at noon on Sunday, only to find that our rooms were not ready. Not to worry, we had a brief lunch, then up to the room before attending an indoctrination meeting with Yana. She would serve as our guide for the next few days, which we are looking forward to be part of."

Monday, July 27, 2009

Home Stretch

We spent our last day on the ship in Passau, Germany. As we were eating breakfast, it looked like it was going to be a pretty rainy Saturday, but as soon as the tour began, the rain cleared, and came back only as we were heading back to the ship that night.

Passau is known for a few things. Firstly, it is home to three rivers, which create a confluence, similar to Pittsburgh. The Danube, Inn, and Ilz Rivers join here, but the colors do not blend fully for about 80 kilometers. The Ilz is a small, black river, coming from the moors and bogs in the forest. The Inn has a turquoise, green color, and as we've mentioned, the "Blue" Danube is a nice murky Ohio River type color.

Passau is also the home of the second largest church organ in the world, located inside (yet another) St. Stephan's Cathedral. After the walking tour of the town, we got to hear the organist perform. People came from everywhere, and nearly filled the large church just to hear it play. I most enjoyed the Bach of course, but even the pieces I'd never heard of were very impressive. It didn't get really loud until the finale, which gave me goosebumps. The Beede women and Belinda/Momma would've really loved it.

The streets in Passau are mostly cobblestone, not to mention steep and narrow as they lead up to the main shopping square. Our guide lead us through the Cathedral, and into some Archbishop residence (the name is escaping me right now). We saw three couples having wedding pictures taken (dress & tux and all), which was cool.

We made our way over to the other side of the peninsula, and took the sidewalk along the Inn River. Our guide said that the rivers in Passau rise very quickly when it rains, especially the Inn. The storm from the night before, and Saturday morning's rain didn't help matters. The Inn was rushing, and starting to come up onto the sidewalk in a few places. The waters were cold, too; you could only last 3 or 4 minutes before hypothermia set in, according to our guide. So much for July.

We headed back to the Cathedral for the concert, and then back to the ship for a Bavarian lunch. We had the afternoon to our disposal, so headed back to town, but this time we headed for the shopping square. Papa and I were both surprised with what we found hiding only a few blocks from the Cathedral, and enjoyed meandering up and down the quaint, but crowded streets. Of course, I bought a little something before heading back to the ship.

At 4:30, Papa had a turn with Balazs, the masseur. Meanwhile, I wrestled with the ship computer for an internet signal, packed a little, and ran on the treadmill. Later that evening was the Captain's Farewell Dinner onboard. After a gourmet seven course meal, all the employees paraded around the dining room and were introduced before being recognized for their hard work throughout the week. Our cruise was pretty small, so we got to know all of the employees (some more than others), and couldn't believe that it was time for them to be seeing us off already. But, even as we headed to breakfast the next morning, the crew was already preparing for the next group which was set to arrive only a few hours after we left for Prague.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

The Hills Are Alive

How could I resist that corny title? After all, we did spend Friday in Salzburg.

We actually woke up in Linz, the third largest city in Austria, but soon after, we grabbed a bus bound for the fourth largest city, Salzburg. The ride took about two hours, but our guide, Suzanne, kept us very entertained with stories of Salzburg's past. Salzburg, literally "salt borough", was one of the first cultivators of salt. At that time, salt was very precious, so many Romans were paid with salt, which is where the word "salary" comes from. Salzburg is also the origin of the expression, "you are the salt of the earth," and, "you are not worth your salt." Basically, until 1756, everything revolved around salt. Then a little violinist changed Salzburg forever...but, we'll get to that later.

After a bathroom break at the most picturesque rest stop I've ever seen, we were only minutes from Salzburg. Suzanne pointed out a certain abbey, which brings me to the next order of business, the Sound of Music. As you're probably aware, this movie was filmed in Salzburg. The abbey she pointed out was the church where Maria and von Trappy tied the knot. Suzanne also mentioned that no one in Austria even watches that movie, but people everywhere else love it.

Keeping with the same theme, our first stop in Salzburg was Mirabell Gardens (see the wiki link above). It didn't ring a bell to me, and I'm guessing you're having the same reaction. Just think of Julie Andrews and Company wearing those awful drapes and singing in solfege while dancing around a garden. Ding ding ding...Mirabell Gardens. I believe, but am not positive, that the von Trapp household was actually filmed inside the Mirabell Garden palace.

Next, we made our way across Salzach River to the old town and onto Getreidegasse, a famous street dating back to Medieval times. Early citizens were illiterate, so shop signs were used not to say the nature of the shop, but to show it. Getreidegasse has continued with this theme, and even the McDonald's sign makes you feel like you should arrive in horse and carriage. The McDonald's is an exception, however, and most of the shops are local, or high end; not to mention the numerous cafes and gelato parlors.

The best part of Getreidegasse, however, is the infamous birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. I mentioned how important salt was for Salzburg, but if the city capitalizes on anything, it is Mozart. Everywhere you look there are Mozart chocolates (which are pretty tasty, I must say), Mozart umbrellas, Mozart pretzels, Mozart t-shirts, etc., etc. Almost as bad as Durnstein with the apricots (see "There Are No Kangaroos in Austria"). Anyway, 253 years after Mozart's birth, he's still more alive than ever in Salzburg. During our free time, Papa and I took a tour of the birthplace, which was pretty cool. I'll spare you the nerdy details, but will mention that they had on display one of Mozart's violins, a harpsichord, and a clavichord. Pretty cool. Of course, I couldn't leave without dishing out a few Euros in the gift shop.

Beyond the Getreidegasse, we found plenty of old palaces, castles, and churches. One church, the Salzburg Cathedral has a pretty interesting history. Much of it was bombed during WWII, and Mozart was baptized here, as well as the poet who wrote "Silent Night, Holy Night." The annual Salzburg Festival begins at the end of July, so we saw all the preparations in action. Temporary stages and pieces of art littered the streets that lead us to St. Peter's cemetery, the small cemetery dating back to 600 A.D. Mozart's sister is buried here, as well as some other important people.

On the other side of St. Peter's, we found the University Square, which was full of fruit stands, pretzel stands, cafes, and the like. Our tour ended here, and we found a nice place for lunch, Cafe Mozart (I told you he was everywhere). After lunch, we continued to roam through the busy streets, sometimes window shopping, sometimes actual shopping. After a stop at Mozart's house, it was time to meet Suzanne again and head back to the bus.

Now that I can upload pictures, here are some from Friday.

Mozart's violin:

Pretzels, to say the least:

Market:

A pretty cool band with the beginnings of the Salzburg Festival in the background:

Mozart's birthplace:

Shop signs on Getreidegasse:

The Old Town from across the Salzach:

A Bit of Photographic Evidence

The internet here in Prague is really very fast, so I decided to upload some photos to back up recent posts.

Buda Castle at night. (Budapest)














Moments before "Mosquito Misery".. when all was well..(Melk)

The Tibetan festival (Melk)













Papa, overlooking the Wachau Valley. (Durnstein)

Pointing to Mozart's Figaro House. (Vienna)

There Are No Kangaroos in Austria

Thursday was a bit of a catch up day after our visit to Vienna. We woke up in Dürnstein, a small village in the Wachau Valley. As we headed west on the Danube, the scenery grew increasingly more beautiful, and Dürnstein was no exception. We could see rows upon rows of crops high in the hills, which turned out to be apricots and grapes. The Wachau valley is known for its wine, especially apricot flavored, and I felt like Forrest Gump as I looked around the shops. Apricot wine, apricot schnapps, apricot liquor, apricot chocolate, apricot soap, apricot nectar, apricot cakes, apricot cookies, and just plain apricots. You can eat ‘em, drink ‘em, bake ‘em, etc., etc…Dürnstein is also famous for castle ruins from the 1300’s, and the Dürnstein Monastery from the 1400’s.

We leisurely made our way to the end of the main street, which was difficult because the narrow streets were crowded with tourists, locals, and many cyclists passing through. We finally made it to the end, and were rewarded with a beautiful view of the Danube and the surrounding mountains. Not only Dürnstein, but the whole Wachau Valley is known for its wine, so there were rows of crops as far as we could see.

Back in Vienna, the t-shirts all had to do with Mozart, and St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and all things Viennese. However, out in the country, the souvenir shops have a better selection of shirts, including the ever popular, “There Are No Kangaroos in Austria.” I may or may not have picked up a little something for Tom Dunlap, as his only request when I was leaving was to bring him back a “No Kangaroos in Austria” shirt. I hope you don’t mind pink, TD… (kidding.)

Our schedule only allowed for two hours here, so after a few photos we headed back toward the ship (for those were wondering, the captain confirmed that we are indeed to refer to it as a SHIP, because we are carrying a boat onboard – a lifeboat). Along the way, we stopped at a fruit stand and bought a quart of fresh apricots for 2.30€ (less than $4). We’ve been snacking on them ever since, and have four left as of 11:53 Saturday evening.

Once back on the ship, we had lunch while the River Beatrice sailed through the Wachau Valley toward Melk. Papa has said many times that the scenery is impossible to describe, and he’s right, so I won’t even try. Finally, around 2pm we docked in Melk, a small village that is home to the impressive Melk Benedictine Monastery. Our local guide showed us a small section of the complex, but one hallway of one wing alone was over 600 yards long (I think there were about 7 wings, including the actual church part). The museum part was filled with tons of old, important things, like a life size crucifix that was over 800 years old.

We made our way back to the ship via the main street, which turned out to be more interesting than the Monastery. Did I already mention that the temperature was about 100 degrees on Thursday? As Papa and I stumbled into a café, parched and panting, we were a little surprised to find that we were now spectators of some sort of Tibetan festival. The first clue was the chanting monks and dancing natives, the second was the "I Love Tibet" t-shirts and "Free Tibet" posters. I also saw a poster for a Bongo Reggae festival the next day. Too bad we were only in Melk for the afternoon....

When we finally cooled off, the trek continued. Hildegard, our cruise manager/jane-of-all-trades gave us brief directions to get back to the ship, which were different than the way the bus went to the Monastery. After missing a turn, stumbling upon a Speedo-clad fisherman, and nearly sweating to death, we made it what I like to refer to as "Mosquito Misery", AKA, a path through the Austrian forest where Papa and I nearly lost our lives due to itch. As soon as we set foot on the path, they began to circle, and as soon as I ran out (swatting and scratching), they were gone. Ew.

We enjoyed another excellent dinner prepared by our chef, Carlos. "The Untouchables" performed in the lounge that evening, and Papa had numerous offers to dance, none of which he accepted. When bedtime rolled around, we were more than ready.